A Slower Guide to Istanbul
Istanbul is a city of dualities. Half European, half Asian; half ancient, half modern. At every turn, contrasts coexist – Byzantine ruins stand next to modern towers, Ottoman mosques share the skyline with Bauhaus-inspired blocks. But the city’s true character lies in the meeting of its polarities – in its ability to hold both past and future, tradition and experimentation, noise and stillness, all at once.
This second instalment in our Places I Need To Go and See series with junior architect Su Demir invites you to explore her hometown at a more thoughtful pace. As with London, Su’s recommendations focus on places shaped by design, character and care – whether it’s a four-table dairy tucked into a side street, a 1930s rationalist beach house built for Atatürk, or a guest house filled with mid-century furniture and family memories.
Here’s a long weekend guide through Istanbul’s spaces of substance: design gems, comfort food institutions, and evocative pockets of the past. Take your time – this is a city best appreciated slowly.
FRIDAY
1. Breakfast at Barbaros Yogurt ve Süt Mamülleri
This is my favourite breakfast spot in Istanbul. It’s tiny – literally only four tables – but that’s what makes it so special. The space feels like a little secret tucked away from the bustle of the city, super cosy and intimate. You could almost imagine yourself in someone’s living room, just enjoying a relaxed morning with a cup of tea.
If you’re in the Fatih area, make sure you swing by Barbaros Yogurt ve Süt Mamülleri – a hidden gem that’s been serving traditional dairy since 1918. Tucked along Akşemsettin Caddesi, this family-run spot is a real piece of Istanbul history. The current owner, who used to be a lawyer, took over the business after his father passed away, continuing the legacy with pride and care.
The place is famous for its rich, creamy buffalo milk yoghurt, which gives it that extra depth of flavour. One of the standout treats here is bal kaymak – a heavenly combination of honey and clotted cream. If you’ve never had it before, you’re in for a treat. It’s sweet, indulgent, and completely melts in your mouth.
As for desserts, tourists must try tavuk göğsü – a silky, milky pudding made with chicken breast (sounds odd, but trust me, it’s amazing) – and aşure, a traditional dessert made with grains, fruits and nuts, offering a perfect balance of sweetness and texture. Both are deeply rooted in Turkish culinary tradition and represent a slice of Istanbul’s food culture.
What makes this place even more special is the commitment to using only the freshest, natural ingredients – no additives, just pure buffalo milk sourced from local farms in Çatalca. So when you visit, you’re not just tasting good food; you’re getting a taste of Istanbul’s dairy legacy.
2. Treasure Hunting at Mecidiyeköy Antique Market
Located in a large, four-storey building, Mecidiyeköy Antique Market has been serving antique enthusiasts since 1982. It’s one of those spots in Istanbul that feels like stepping into a different era. The market offers a huge variety of items – from vintage kitchen utensils and old books to beautiful paintings and unique furniture pieces. It’s a paradise for collectors and anyone interested in Istanbul’s layered past.
What makes this market stand out is its unique shopping system: rather than having vendors on-site, the shop owners display their phone numbers at the market’s entrances. Once you spot something you like, you simply call the number, and the owner comes to open the shop for you. It’s a throwback to a more personal, slower way of shopping, where the hunt is half the joy.
The market is open seven days a week, making it easy to visit whenever you’re in the area. It’s in the bustling district of Mecidiyeköy, known for its mix of modern buildings and traditional shops.
3. Grilled Meat at Zübeyir Ocakbaşı
Hands down, my favourite kebab spot in Istanbul. And yes, as a Turk, I wholeheartedly approve. If you haven’t been to an ocakbaşı, you’re missing out. It’s a traditional Turkish dining experience where you sit around an open grill (the “ocak”) and watch the chefs prepare your food right in front of you. It’s all about the communal vibe – everyone gathered around, enjoying sizzling meats and the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
Zübeyir Ocakbaşı takes this to the next level. The lamb ribs here are an absolute must – tender, perfectly charred, full of smoky flavour. If you’re into juicy, flavourful kebabs, the çöp şiş will blow you away. Tender pieces of marinated meat grilled to perfection. And don’t skip the meze – the Gavurdağı salad with zesty pomegranate molasses and crushed walnuts is essential. It all pairs beautifully with the kebabs and the warm, friendly energy of the place.
Two floors, a brilliant grill experience, and a cosy atmosphere that fills up fast – so do book ahead. If you’re in Istanbul and love kebabs, this one’s a can’t-miss.
SATURDAY
4. Turkish Modernism at Florya Atatürk Mansion
Probably my favourite modernist building of all time. The Florya Atatürk Mansion, designed by architect Seyfi Arkan, was commissioned by none other than the first president of Turkey, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. Located on the shores of Florya, a summer retreat zone just outside Istanbul, the complex was created as a place for Atatürk to relax while staying connected with the public.
This building is a small but powerful example of the modernist-rationalist style, which defined much of the early Turkish Republic’s architecture. Atatürk wanted a space that reflected the ideals of modernisation, and Arkan’s design delivers. Though modest in size, the mansion features thoughtful detailing and an interior that speaks directly to the trends of the time.
Atatürk personally selected Arkan after his success on the Ministry of Foreign Affairs Residence in Ankara. The original design included the Summer Residence, General Secretariat and the Presidential Aide Residence, along with three buildings: the White, Red, and Blue Mansions. Over time, the complex grew to include a beach, commercial spaces and a road system.
If you’re a fan of modernist architecture or curious about the early Turkish Republic, this is a must-visit. The balance of functionality and elegance is quietly stunning.
5. Home Cooking at Helvetia
If you’re craving a spot that feels like home, Helvetia is the one. This place is all about home-cooked goodness – think hearty meals, flavours that hit just right, and everything made fresh daily. No need to book – just show up and tuck in.
They’ve got excellent veggie options too. Whether you’re after something meat-heavy or plant-based, there’s always something deeply satisfying. The food is unfussy but full of flavour – just like a proper home-cooked meal should be.
The vibe? Super chill. It’s not fancy, but that’s what makes it feel like you’re at a friend’s place for dinner. If you’re in the area, do yourself a favour and pop in.
6. Soulful Stays at Petek Pansiyon
Without a doubt, my favourite place to stay in Istanbul. The story behind it makes it even more special. It all began when the owners bought the building as a summer residence from a French antique dealer. After tragically losing their eldest son, the family decided to turn it into a summer guesthouse in 1962, hoping to “start new memories.”
The owner’s grandfather, Mustafa Pilevneli, used the space for his art, and today it’s filled with the family’s collection – stunning 1960s furniture from closed hotels and even royals. It’s like stepping into another era.
So what’s a pansiyon? It’s a budget-friendly guesthouse or small hotel, often family-run and warm. Petek Pansiyon takes that idea and elevates it. The atmosphere is so full of personality – it’s the kind of place that feels like it has a soul.
7. A Place To Spend All Night In at Yakup 2 Asmalı
Located in one of Istanbul’s most vibrant neighbourhoods, Yakup 2 Asmalı feels like one of those places you just stumble upon and instantly feel at home. The red chairs with their black metal structure are simple yet stylish, giving the place a modern edge while keeping things comfortable. There’s no extra fuss, just perfectly arranged seating that invites you to stay a while.
The floor is lined with beautifully patterned tiles, adding a touch of personality without overwhelming the space. It’s the kind of design that feels effortless yet intentional, like everything in the place has its own purpose.
And let’s not forget the meze. Fresh, flavourful, and a must-try. The selection is perfect for sharing, and it really brings out the true taste of Turkish cuisine. You could easily spend hours here, nibbling on meze and sipping on your drink while soaking in the laid-back vibe.
If you’re in the area and looking for a spot to relax with good food and great atmosphere, Yakup 2 Asmalı is a place you won’t want to miss.
SUNDAY
8. Something Sweet at Baylan
Baylan in Kadıköy is one of those timeless places that capture the soul of the city’s dessert culture. It’s been serving sweets since 1950 and is now a beloved institution.
Step inside and you’re immediately greeted by an old-school charm – traditional touches meet a warm, inviting atmosphere. And the desserts? Legendary. The standout is the Kup Griye – a layered concoction of milk, cream and nuts. Total indulgence.
They also do brilliant chocolates and pastries, all fresh, creamy and rich in flavour. There’s a savoury menu if you’re hungry, but really, come for the sweets. Whether you sit in for a coffee and dessert or grab something to take away, Baylan’s still got it.
9. Objects with Stories at Horhor Market
If you love antiques or just enjoy getting lost in a market, Horhor is your spot. Located in the Aksaray district, this seven-floor labyrinth has over 200 shops filled with everything from Ottoman furniture to vintage rugs and quirky copperware.
It’s dusty, a bit chaotic, and absolutely full of stories. Every item feels like a piece of Istanbul’s past waiting to be discovered. The market has been around for nearly 50 years, and it’s got that lived-in, layered charm.
A tip: bring cash. It’s easier for haggling, and some places won’t take cards. And don’t be shy – chat to the shopkeepers. They’ve often got the best tales to tell.
10. Book Shopping at Turcalibris Kitapevi
Hands down, my favourite bookshop on the European side. Tucked into a quiet corner, Turcalibris Kitapevi is a book lover’s dream – calm, cosy and beautifully curated.
They’ve got a brilliant range of Turkish books, alongside a solid collection in English and French. Whether you’re after a classic, a new release or just browsing, you’ll find something here.
The staff are friendly and full of recommendations. It’s the kind of place that’s easy to spend hours in – and you’ll definitely leave with something special.